A Queens Boy’s Tour of Austin BBQ

This feature comes from Anthony Scerri, owner of NYC-based BBQ operation Smoke Sweats. He recently visited Austin, Texas for BBQ (a rite of passage for many in the barbecue community) and graciously wrote about his trip for NYC BBQ. Be sure to visit Smoke Sweats for their pop-ups and event appearances. If you want to write for this newsletter, please get in touch. -Sean

Freshly forty and having no interest at all in World War II history, I traveled to some of Ausin’s most iconic BBQ spots for the first time. What better place to spend one’s 40th birthday than the live music capital of the world? The only thing is, we completely ignored the music.

Anthony Scerri of Smoke Sweats is a regular at events like Pig Island and Rib King. (Photo by Sean Ludwig)

I’m a BBQ fan, not a BBQ writer, so to communicate my experience in Austin, I broke it down by day to give you all a clear picture of where we went and what we ate.

Day 1: Valentina’s Tex Mex BBQ, 9:30AM

The tacos at Valentina's are amazing. (Photo by Smoke Sweats)

At the top of our list, Valentina’s Tex Mex BBQ stood out as a “must go” and not because of word-of-mouth, not because of their incredible Instagram content, but because of their breakfast menu.

We drive up to the space near the train tracks and, of course, park in the wrong parking lot, but that stupidity paid off to be a genius move. Instead of parking in front of the establishment, we parked in the back, where we followed the smoke and found the open pit room where several pitmasters were tending to fires, food, and rotations. We were warmly greeted and encouraged to step inside, getting a tour of the space where four 1,000-gallon smokers lived. Each one was stuffed to the brim with a mixture of briskets, pork butts, pork shoulders, and the day’s special, beef cheeks. Valentina’s also exclusively uses mesquite wood to smoke their meats, and there was no shortage of it.

Other items at Valentina's. (Photo by Smoke Sweats)

After the tour, we walked in from the side door and noticed the ever so obvious stainless steel “Valentina’s Tex Mex BBQ” sign large enough that it can read by your grandma from a thousand yards. The space itself was spacious, beautiful, and modern, but also hinted at traditional values with certain decor and props. We were early, so there fortunately wasn’t much of a line, but long enough to help me make a final decision at the register.

I immediately ordered the day’s special which was a barbacoa beef cheek taco topped with a fried egg. It was joined by a smoked brisket taco, an egg, potato, cheese, and bacon breakfast taco, and some red potato salad. The food was brought to our table and we instantly knew that everything was prepared with thought and love. My beef cheek taco took me beyond the taco-sphere… the cheeks were soft and the yolk from the egg just added a ridiculously silky texture to compliment the chewy tortilla. The smoked brisket taco was delicious as well, especially with the acidity of the guacamole. As far as breakfast tacos go, Valentina’s has my vote. The eggs weren’t overcooked, the cheese was melty, the bacon was salty, and the potatoes were the perfect size. My only gripe was the red potato slaw because of the inconsistency with how long the potatoes were cooked.

Regardless, an incredibly strong start that we didn’t think could be superseded…

Day 2: Interstellar BBQ, 10:45AM

InterStellar BBQ is one of the best BBQ joints in Texas. (Photo by Smoke Sweats)

Finding InterStellar BBQ isn't hard to find.

Inside what seems to be a quiet strip mall are three 1,000-gallon smokers parked within the planters being tended by staff. Beyond those smokers is a line of people that have been waiting for God knows how long. With an 11AM open on a Sunday, I took my spot in line, made friends, and finally made my way to the register.

As the No. 2 spot in all of Texas (according to Texas Monthly), I made sure to order a good mix of everything. On my plate was half a pound of Peach Tea Glazed Pork Belly, pulled lamb, two slices of fatty brisket, scalloped potatoes, a jalapeno popper sausage, gouda mac and cheese, beans, and chorizo cheddar grits. I sat alone in a tightly contained room where people were clearly staring and wondering, “How the hell is this guy going to eat all that”? No pressure, am I right?

The Peach Tea Glazed Pork Belly at InterStellar is life-changing. (Photo by Smoke Sweats)

Peach Tea Glazed Pork Belly — My absolute favorite bite of BBQ I’ve had in a long time. It was soft, it was fatty, and most importantly, wasn’t too sweet. These perfect squares of pork bliss ruined belly for me forever.

Brisket — Slightly overcooked, which was disappointing considering they were fatty cuts. The flavor was wonderful, but you couldn’t help knowing that this could have been better. Not the worst brisket by a long shot, but expectations were high.

Pulled Lamb — This brought a lot of pastrami flavors to the table. Not gamey at all, incredibly moist, and surprisingly more delicious than I anticipated. Definitely a sleeper hit.

Jalapeno Popper Sausage — Again, probably the best sausage I’ve ever had. Flavorful, smooth, melty, gooey, spicy, and the skin created a wonderful textural bite that I loved. Shame I only bought one…

Scalloped Potatoes — A non-traditional dish that I loved and tasted very similar to how I make mine. The potatoes were soft, smokey, creamy, and the crust on top added a nice crunch.

Gouda Mac and Cheese — For me, what makes a great mac and cheese is its ability not to seize up after ten seconds of air exposure. This did not. Creamy all the way through, cheesy bites throughout, and the breadcrumbs on top were extra credit.

Chorizo Cheddar Grits — This side was a textural masterpiece. It legitimately sent me into the shadow realm and threw away the key. Slightly spicy, and ultimately delicious. 

Beans — Did I mention the beans are free? Did I mention the beans are delicious? If you’re a fan of “stewy” beans, you will leave incredibly happy with this tomato-based side.

InterStellar BBQ surely earned their No. 2 spot and should be on everyone’s radar coming into Austin. An absolutely incredible experience from the moment I stepped in line.

Day 2: The Salt Lick Driftwood, 5:30PM

The pit at The Salt Lick in Driftwood, Texas is famous. (Photo by Smoke Sweats)

The Salt Lick wasn’t originally on my list, but I was convinced to go by a friend who claims “It’s one of the OG BBQ places in Austin.” ... I couldn’t refuse.

The property, upon driving in, was enormous, almost like a ranch rather than a restaurant. Just acres of property with a few structures placed in between. You can smell the smoke from miles away before even approaching one of their pits.

We had a table ready for us immediately and were seated, but I quickly rose up to make my way to what I really wanted to see. Towards the back was a large open fire pit, stuffed to the brim with layers of various meats and hanging sausages above. Staff were continuously shifting spaces, rotating proteins, and carving what seemed like an eternity. There were no wasted seconds within this space, and for a second, I thought, “Maybe this won’t suck,” as I walked back to my seat and placed the order. 

In true NY fashion, we over-ordered, and within a matter of minutes, our food was already on the table. Presentation-wise, everything looked sloppy, especially the sides. The entire meal had a “basic” look to it. I can understand traditional ways of doing things, but this didn’t feel like it at all. This wasn’t legendary; this was dusty and old.

The food at The Salt Lick was disappointing. (Photo by Smoke Sweats)

Brisket — Sadly dry, and the carving was inconsistent which left a weird mouth feeling. 

Beef Ribs — Chewy and oversauced. This also wasn’t your typical beef rib, I mistook it for a spare rib and coudn’t taste the meat at all thanks to the sauce.

Pork Ribs — More tender than the beef, but again, couldn’t taste the pork. Also, they leave on the skin, so expect some of it to get inside your teeth.

Turkey — Surprisingly the best protein on the plate. Not dry, very flavorful, and sliced at the perfect proportion. If there’s one thing to get here, it’s this.

Kielbasa — Nothing special. It tastes similar to what you would get at a supermarket and place it on the grill. I’m not saying that it’s bad; I’m just saying that it’s forgettable.

Potato Salad — This had a strange texture that I couldn’t put my finger on. It’s almost as if they mashed some potatoes, and then used that as a mayo substitute. It wasn’t off-putting, just strange.

Cole Slaw — As basic as it gets. Soupy on the bottom but managed to stay crunchy on top. Again, nothing to write home about.

I came to this place knowing it would be the most commercial of the bunch. The opportunity to see the pit was worth coming regardless. Overall, not my favorite, but that shouldn’t sway you into not coming. The place itself is a spectacle and great place for large groups or gatherings.

Day 3: Terry Black’s BBQ, 4:30PM

Terry Black's is a great spot to visit in Austin. (Photo by Smoke Sweats)

Our last stop on the tour. 

At Terry Black's, you’re immediately greeted by a giant black and red sign, letting you know you’re in the right spot. The parking lot is home to not only vehicles but also what looks to be the pit room with its own sign living on the roof. The exterior of Terry’s reminded me of a beach town seafood restaurant. Lots of paint, lots of signs, lots of cliches… but it’s not till you get inside that the show truly starts.

Once you get through the front door, you’re automatically in the gift shop. For me, it’s an incredibly awkward feeling to be surrounded by merch straight from the get go, especially when you’re hungry. I made my way up to the front just to observe the landscape. The carving stations are front and center, while the side station is kept separate in the corner. The space was large and visually overwhelming, making it difficult for me to get an understanding of how to order. With a little help from the friendly staff, I picked up my tray and started my journey.

You start off picking your sides. Naturally, I ordered a mac and cheese and a creamed corn. After, I made my way to the meat stations, where a slicer already had a beef rib sampler waiting for me to devour. Very strong start. I went on to order a few slices of fatty brisket, pork spare ribs, and a jalapeno cheddar sausage. There was so much going on in the space, almost like a museum, but somehow I was able to make my way with a tray full of food outside on one of the vacant tables.

Terry Black's has impressive brisket. (Photo by Smoke Sweats)

Brisket — The best of the trip. Truly the king of briskets. Perfectly moist, incredibly flavorful, and sliced perfectly. This sent a very wide smile to my face.

Pork Ribs — Solid ribs that pulled off the bone with good bite. As good as they were, the wife pleasantly responded, “Yours are better”. She’s never wrong.

Jalapeno Cheddar Sausage — Surprisingly disappointing. The texture was mealy, the cheese didn’t melt through, and the skin was soggy. Compared to the one I had at InterStellar, this one was light years behind.

Mac and Cheese — The cheese seized up as I thought it would, but the interestingly oversized noodles trapped a lot of cheese inside, which oozed on every bite. Not the best, but very good nonetheless.

Creamed Corn — I actually really enjoyed this. Just the right amount of sweet, and the corn tasted fresh. The touch of chili powder on top was a great touch.

Overall, it was a great experience, and I will definitely come back for the brisket as well as all the other food items I didn’t try. I’m also a sucker for establishments with obnoxiously huge signs.

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Thank you, Austin, for your hospitality and the food. I can’t wait to return.

Anthony Scerri
Owner and Pitmaster, Smoke Sweats