Subway's Brisket Sandwich Is a Disgrace to BBQ
Subway's new brisket sandwich is, uh, something.
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A little more than a month ago, Subway — America's No. 1 chain by number of locations — released a brisket sandwich that the company described as "the real deal" and claimed barbecue fans in Austin, Texas were fooled into believing it was a legit brisket sandwich.
Some debates have popped up online whether the sandwich is good by "fast food barbecue" standards and generally whether it has any similarities to barbecue from good joints around the country.
To get to the bottom of this, I decided to visit a Subway location in Brooklyn this week to find out just how good or bad this sandwich was. Unfortunately — and you probably guessed by the headline — the sandwich was a miserable failure on multiple levels and a poor representation of barbecue generally.
The first sign something was amiss is that Subway's brisket is held cold inside a steel tin just like its other meats. When you see the brisket in the bin, it's a frightening sight that any barbecue pitmaster would scream at. Instead of brisket being smoked out back and then freshly sliced in front of you, the brisket here is a nightmare.
For my order, three slices of brisket were taken from the bin and put on an Italian bun with cheddar cheese and barbecue sauce. Then, it was popped into Subway's crazy-fast toaster oven for 35 seconds.
Like other Subway sandwiches, you can then top it however you want. I went with spinach, peppers, and onions, but really it doesn't matter what you add to it. All the toppings are seemingly designed to dilute the contents of the sandwich so you really don't taste the brisket. When I pulled out brisket to try it solo, it looked somewhat like the real deal but it tasted more like roast beef with an artificial smokiness added.
At my Brooklyn location, the 6-inch version of the sandwich runs $6.75 and the footlong (should you want more torture) runs $9.75. About 30 minutes after eating the 6-inch brisket sandwich and a side of "mac n cheese," my stomach hurt immensely and I didn't feel well the next few hours. I should have seen it coming.
The "brisket" from Subway can found in a plastic bin before it goes in the oven.
While there is nothing inherently wrong with a fast food place trying to make its own spin on a barbecue sandwich, it is wrong to pretend you have any shred of authenticity.
In its press release announcing the sandwich, Len Van Popering, Subway's Chief Brand and Innovation Officer, said this: "We collaborated with some of the most talented pitmasters in the country to create a one-of-a-kind taste experience that features the unmistakable flavor that comes from using real smoke and freshly baked bread. It's a combination that simply can't be beat."
Unfortunately no "pitmaters" have actually been named and the closest thing we've been given is "Pitmaster Ramone," who is prominently featured on Subway's marketing materials. He is called a "legend" on the posters about him, but he's so legendary he doesn't have a last name?
Subway is touting "Pitmaster Ramone" in their ads but won't say what his last name is.
I, like many others on the BBQ internet, have wondered about who "Pitmaster Ramone" is. I emailed Subway to ask about him in more detail. Who is this legend and does he actually have 38 years of experience? Subway was evasive but did at least respond with the following statement:
"Ramone is a pit boss with a Texas smokehouse who has been mastering his skills for over 30 years," a Subway spokesperson said. "And like any good pit boss, the passion and talent he has for his craft shines through. Not only do we think Ramone and his team are doing a great job, but our guests who have tried the Pit-Smoked Brisket whole-heartedly agree. We do not publicly share the names of our suppliers."
Greg Rempe of the The BBQ Central Show talked about Ramone's identity on his most recent show and Daniel Vaughn of Texas Monthly did his own investigation. By all accounts, Pitmaster Ramone is a real person and his name is Ramon Gonzales of Sadler’s Smokehouse in Henderson, Texas. However, it's telling that Subway didn't even spell his name correctly.
A closer look at the "brisket" in question from Subway.
Now, to be fair, this is a fast food barbecue sandwich and I fully understand that. If the marketing wasn't borrowing from the craft barbecue world or trying to tout the character of "Pitmaster Ramone," it wouldn't be too big of a deal. My Brooklyn Subway "sandwich artist" told me the sandwich was actually one of the three most popular sandwiches right now, alongside the chicken teriyaki and turkey. So some people out there are digging the sandwich or perhaps there is simply immense curiosity about it.
If you want to eat a real brisket sandwich, almost any joint in NYC is going to be far better than what's being served at Subway. My recommendations include Hometown Bar-B-Que in Red Hook or Industry City; Mighty Quinn's Barbeque in the East Village; Izzy's Brooklyn Smokehouse in Crown Heights; and Red, White, and Que Smokehouse in Kearny, New Jersey.
If you know of a better brisket sandwich than those places or you have a fast food barbecue recommendation that you like, please let me know.
Sean Ludwig
Founder, NYC BBQ
EAT ALL ABOUT IT
Pete Wells of the New York Times trashed famed Brooklyn steakhouse Peter Luger in a new review. (Photo by bryansjs/Flickr)
The most talked-about food story this week is the zero-star review given to Brooklyn’s Peter Luger Steakhouse by New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells. The story has created strong divisions with fans of the steakhouse (including Hometown Bar-B-Que’s Billy Durney) defending the joint and haters coming out of the woodwork to say they “hated the place all along.”
If you’re looking for steakhouses to try that aren’t Peter Luger, the Times also rounded up 13 other great places to try. Among the list, I’d steer people to Keens Steakhouse in Manhattan, St. Anselm in Brooklyn, and M. Wells in Queens.
Popular supermarket Stop & Shop is rolling out “wing bars” to stores in Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, and New Jersey through November, reports Supermarket News. The wings will come in eight flavors and retail for $7.99 per pound, which is a fairly good price point. This will likely provide a solid last-minute option for Saturday and Sunday football parties throughout the Northeast.
Operation BBQ Relief will be visiting Ocean County, New Jersey on Saturday, November 2. The prominent barbecue charity will serve 1,000 hot meals at the Hope Center in Toms River from 12 to 3 p.m.
The New York City Council passed legislation this week to ban the sale of foie gras in the city, one of the country’s largest markets, beginning in 2022. The New York Times reports that “most foie gras is produced through a process known as gavage; ducks are force-fed a fatty corn-based mixture that engorges their livers.” Animal rights activists have been pushing for years to ban the dish. However, New York-based foie gras farmers say that the forced feedings are not cruel, and that the “claims of torture are exaggerated.”
New joint Vegabond BBQ continues to attract attention in central New Jersey. Chris Ventura, co-owner of the restaurant, has put a special emphasis on international flavors in part because he has called cities like Beijing, Berlin, Amsterdam, and Lisbon home before he moved back to Jersey.
IRL BBQ
Mid-November’s memorial for Carl Ruiz at Pig Beach will be a star-studded event with amazing barbecue for all to try.
Here are the top BBQ (and related) food events coming soon to the New York metro and the Tri-State area:
Saturday, November 9: If you love cider and cured meats, don’t miss out on the upcoming CiderFeast NYC event in Brooklyn. Celebrate NY Cider Week with this all-inclusive event with cider tasting, cured ham, apple pie, Spanish foods, live music, and more. Buy tickets here.
Saturday, November 16: Brooklyn’s Pig Beach will soon be hosting a Memorial Party for Carl Ruiz, who passed away recently. The #ruizingforacause event will feature several top pitmasters from around the city and country, all making fantastic barbecue. It will serve as the launch of the #ruizingforacause Foundation that will be focused on two causes close to Carl’s heart: the culinary world & those getting their start in it and funding research for finding a cure for Alzheimer’s. The event is 12 to 5 p.m., but VIP tickets will get you in the door one hour early. Buy tickets here.
Thursday, November 28: Few barbecue joints are actually open on Thanksgiving itself, but you can eat smoked turkey and more at Hill Country Barbecue Market’s Thanksgiving Dinner. The Flatiron-based restaurant will be open and doing a traditional Thanksgiving feast with all sorts of meats and sides. Make reservations here.
Saturday, January 18: The 10th annual Beer Bourbon & BBQ Festival is leaving Manhattan after a decade of fun and heading to Brooklyn. A ticket buys you access to tasting great local barbecue, hot sauces, and tons of spirits. The “Beast Cage” will be back with exotic smoked meats, including alligator, lamb, bison, longhorn rounds, and much more. There will also be whole hog and other great dishes as well. Buy tickets here.
SAY HELLO
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