Soaring Meat Prices Put Serious Pressure on BBQ Joints
Meat prices of all kinds are through the roof in 2021.
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Throughout 2021, the cost of all kinds of products — from lumber to used cars — has exploded. Conventional economic wisdom suggests this is due to a combination of supply shortages and pent-up demand from people coming out of lockdown that want to buy things again.
Another notable thing that soared in price this year is the price of meat, which has hit near-record levels. Chicken wing prices, for example, have been rising nearly all year, making it hard for wing joints to sell their signature product. Beef and pork prices have also jumped, with brisket prices higher than they’ve ever been.
The steep increase in meat prices has, in turn, hurt restaurants, but especially BBQ restaurants where meat is the core attraction. Some have opted to raise menu prices, while others are feeling short-term pain in hopes for costs to return to normal soon. And that’s not all the pain they are feeling.
BBQ Restaurants Feeling the Pain of Meat Prices and Labor Shortages
Many local BBQ joints have told me meat prices have been hurting their bottom lines. Ed Randolph, owner and pitmaster at Handsome Devil BBQ in Newburgh, New York, said he has seen an astounding level of demand with many people coming to the restaurant and catering requests rising. But with his meat prices up 70%, he does not see much profit.
Ed Randolph of Handsome Devil BBQ in Newburgh, NY says he's been feeling pressure from meat prices as of late.
“While we're busier, we’re just kind of treading water because even if there’s a 70% increase, you can't increase your prices 70%, or people won't come in the door,” Randolph said. “And when you're a barbecue joint, what do you do? Do you not serve brisket or not serve ribs? Well, that defeats the purpose of being a barbecue joint. So we internally have been taking the beating on the pricing and the cost for the past couple months and really hoping that we see the light at the end of the tunnel and all these things start to come down.”
Randolph said as of last week he was paying $4.25 a pound for chicken wings and $5.65 a pound for prime brisket. To get a bigger picture of what that means, he said a standard brisket delivery would run $7,000, and that now costs $13,000.
On the flip side, some joints have decided to raise prices. Robert Austin Cho, owner and pitmaster of Kimchi Smoke in Westwood, NJ, said he’s never paid more for meat in his life, with his brisket prices up about 70%, pork ribs up 100%, and pork shoulder up 90%. And to respond to this, he felt he needed to bring up his menu prices.
“I have made some slight increases, such as raising an item by $1 or $2,” Cho said. “But you can't raise it in proportion to the increase in meat price. … If they continue to keep going up, then I think people have no choice [but to raise prices]. And if you go to the grocery store, people know that everything that they're buying costs more, so they understand.”
The food at Kimchi Smoke in Westwood, NJ is good as ever but might cost you a tad more due to meat price increases.
On top of the meat prices, the country’s labor shortage has also hurt the bottom line for restaurants like Handsome Devil BBQ and Kimchi Smoke. Both Randolph and Cho said their costs per person had gone up, and it’s still hard to hire even if they’re paying more.
“It's tough now to find people to work,” Randolph said. “You could be paying a dishwasher $18 to $20 an hour to wash dishes, which is insane.”
Other increased costs that are hurting restaurants include cooking oil, aluminum foil, and paper goods.
“The only thing that hasn't gone up in price have been my prices,” Randolph said, “To the end consumer, that's the only thing that hasn't gone up yet. It's really been a shocker. And I don't know how some of these other people are getting around it.”
It’s a Different Story for Pop-Ups
In the pop-up barbecue world, on the other hand, the meat price increase and labor shortages haven’t been felt as severely. These operations generally thrive off of being flexible and not requiring a ton of extra labor.
Matt Fisher of NYC's Queens Custom Barbecue said he has not raised prices on his delicious ribs much even with higher meat prices.
Matt Fisher, pitmaster and owner of NYC-based Queens Custom Barbecue, says he has not increased his prices much because he’s been able to keep costs down. But as a small-order pop-up with barbecue made only by him, he acknowledges that his position is unique.
“I don't have as many fixed costs as other people in the barbecue business where you have rent, insurance, permitting, labor, and advertising costs,” Fisher says. “So it's very manageable and scalable. And I can be upfront with customers when they ask me about menu pricing.”
Leland Avellino, pitmaster and owner of Avellino Family BBQ in Stamford, Conn., said he raises and lowers prices week to week to accommodate his costs. But he does note his audience understands exactly what he’s up to and how he operates.
“One of the great things about how our business is structured is I write a menu every week, so my prices always change,” Avellino said. “It was about $42 a rack for baby back ribs the last time we sold them. Because I was able to find them at a better price, I actually reduced them to 36 this week, just because everything is on a formula.”
Leland Avellino of Avellino Family BBQ in Conn. has raised and lowered prices based on the market and still seen a lot of success.
Both Fisher and Avellino intend to expand their operations soon. Fisher said Queens Custom Barbecue might find a home soon with regular pop-ups at a brewery in Ridgewood, Queens. Avellino said his operation has just started a weekend food truck at Half Full Brewery and will ramp up operations for the truck throughout the summer.
Despite the meat price increase and labor shortage, Avellino surprisingly said the most significant pressure point for his business right now is growth.
“Our growth is my biggest limiter right now,” Avellino said. “If I had five more pits, I could do five times the business. It’s kind of funny to say. … We're doing twice or three times the business we were doing a month ago. And it just keeps going.”
Keep Customers Informed
As prices for meat and labor continue to fluctuate, one thing restauranteurs can do to keep their customers is to make sure they are informed. They can do this through social media posts, emails, or other means.
Avellino, for example, sends out a weekly email each Wednesday to his fans and customers about what is happening with his business.
“I call it a message from the smokehouse,” Avellino said. “I really like to communicate to our customers, and from the very beginning, I've been sending it once a week. I not only tell them pricing and information but also like to talk about how the food I'm cooking connects with me and my family and my roots. Because I feel like the story is such a big part of all food but especially for barbecue."
Sean Ludwig
Founder, NYC BBQ
EAT ALL ABOUT IT
All New York pandemic-related restaurant restrictions have now been lifted.
Here are the top BBQ and related food news stories you need to know about this week:
NY Gov. Andrew Cuomo announced this past Tuesday that nearly all restrictions for business and social gatherings have been lifted in New York, including at restaurants. The news comes after New York State surpassed 70 percent of adult New Yorkers receiving at least one dose of the COVID-19 vaccine. READ HERE.
Longtime South Jersey barbecue joints Fat Jack’s BBQ is asking for the public’s help after thieves stole the eatery’s $30,000 smoker. The unit was taken sometime around midnight between this past Sunday and Monday. If you see a suspicious smoker for sale, let them know. READ HERE.
Esquire Magazine’s list of best wings in the state features several colorful joints and bars in the area. The list includes Dinosaur Bar-B-Que in Harlem for New York’s entry, Peck Peck Korean Style Chicken in Teaneck for New Jersey’s entry, the Dew Drop Inn in Derby for Connecticut’s entry, and B.T.’s Smokehouse in Sturbridge as the best spot to order wings in Massachusetts. READ HERE.
The Rock, Ribs, and Ridges Festival in New Jersey (more info below) has added the Allman Betts Band to its lineup of rockers. The event also will feature a lot of barbecue as well. READ HERE.
If you’re looking for a new BBQ program to watch, do not miss out on the second season of BBQ Brawl on the Food Network. The show features a diverse cast of crazy good pitmasters from around the country and is hosted by Bobby Flay, Michael Symon, and Eddie Jackson. Based on the first episode, which premiered this week, it’s going to be the best BBQ competition show to air in 2021. WATCH THE FIRST EPISODE HERE.
The owner of Newark, NJ barbecue and wing restaurant Uncle Willie’s Wings has seen an outpouring of support from the community in the past year. Walter “Willie” Green thought his restaurant would close during the pandemic, but people took notice of his generosity and kept it afloat. READ HERE.
The Rib Off in Hartford, Connecticut, has officially been scheduled for October 15 and 16 in Riverside Park. $20 early-bird tickets are on sale, and a ticket will include “admission, parking, free barbecue samples, cocktails, access to food trucks, a tasting glass with continual pours, live music, and unlimited soft drinks.” READ HERE.
Syracuse-based Dinosaur Bar-B-Que has launched its first new sauces in 15 years. The new Red Chili Sour Cherry and the Hot Honey Gold join three other sauces in the Dinosaur’s current lineup of bottled sauces. READ HERE.
On a final note, I sadly missed the news last month that the well-regarded barbecue joint Big W’s Roadside BBQ in Wingdale, NY, has permanently closed. So pour one out for Big W because this is a Big L for the New York State BBQ scene. READ HERE.
IRL BBQ EVENTS
Do not miss out on the next Beer, Bourbon, and BBQ Festival in Brooklyn on July 31 and August 1.
June 25-27, 2021: The 11th annual Rock, Ribs & Ridges Festival in NJ will feature music from some of the biggest names in Southern rock plus mouthwatering barbecue served up by several top pitmasters from around the country. Barbecue operators on-site will include Handsome Devil BBQ from Newburgh, Cowboys BBQ from Ft. Worth, and Magic Mike's Smoked Meats from Teaneck, NJ. The event will be held at the Sussex County Fairgrounds in Augusta, NJ. BUY TICKETS HERE.
July 31 & August 1st, 2021: The 11th Annual Beer, Bourbon, and BBQ Festival will be back at the Brooklyn Expo Center in Greenpoint for a two-day event. This event focuses on bourbon and beer tastings, along with multiple barbecue joints serving up lots of excellent smoked meats. BUY TICKETS HERE.
September 11, 2021: At the end of the summer, Pig Island NYC will celebrate its 12th year on September 11, 2021, at Snug Harbor on Staten Island. Join in for all-inclusive food and drink from all-star pitmasters and chefs who will be serving up delicious porky goodness, as well as local breweries, distilleries, and cideries. Top chefs will compete for the best dishes, and event-goers reap the benefits. BUY TICKETS HERE.
October 15-16, 2021: Tickets are available now for the Hartford Rib Off, an annual charity fundraiser that will be in Riverside Park in Hartford, Conn. All of the proceeds from the two-day event will benefit The Hole in the Wall Gang Camp in Ashford, Journey Home of Hartford, and The Hartford Rib Off Scholarship Fund. Tickets can get you access to admission, parking, kids’ activities, an all-you-can-eat buffet, free barbecue samples, a tasting cup with continual pours, live music, unlimited soft drinks, and access to vendors. BUY TICKETS HERE.
October 16-17, 2021: The 8th Annual Hot Sauce Expo NYC will be back for two days in fall 2021. The event will be held at the Brooklyn Expo Center in Greenpoint and will feature tons of hot sauce samples, barbecue, and beer to purchase, fun on-stage events, and more. BUY TICKETS HERE
SAY HELLO
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